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Sankriti feat. Papon and The East India Company at Jadavpur University, Kolkata

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Abhisekant Basu

Abhisekant Basu is an engineering student . Photography is one of his major interests and he hopes to be a full time photographer someday.

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The South Asian Bands Festival 2013 at Purana Qila, Delhi

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The South Asian Bands Festival is the annual festival held as a part of the SAARC regional integration through culture, organised by ICCR.  In its seventh edition, this is one of those festivals whose sound gets lost in the din of the mainstream, alhough there’s a certain edge TSABF enjoys over the rest. The amazing cultural diversity, the stellar Purana Qila as the venue, and of course the free entry undoubtedly takes the cake.

Day 1

Delegates and alike filled up the VIP seats and the crowd started gathering around the stage on a pleasant evening. With balloons kicking off the first day of the South Asian Bands festival, the evening at first seemed a quiet one. The line-up for the day included Barefaced Liar and Circus from Delhi, Biuret from South Korea, LRB from Bangladesh and ZnG from Bhutan.

The South Asian Bands Festival 2013 at Purana Qila, Delhi

With no entry charge for the festival, one would expect a lot of people attending, but the numbers looked scanty. Barefaced Liar opened the act and enlivened the atmosphere at Purana Qila which was lit up in warm red and pink lights. The stage was full of colours and flags of all the nations were pinned up. The band showed immense energy and eventually called their newest member Darshan who joined the band with his mesmerizing violin. By the end of their list, the crowd had ‘woken up’ and had started singing and swaying in joy.

The South Asian Bands Festival 2013 at Purana Qila, Delhi

LRB from Bangladesh was next and started their list with heavy guitar-chugging. Their act included a couple of Bangla originals and they mostly did some covers of popular numbers including ‘Smoke on the Water’, ‘Smells like Teen Spirit’ and ‘We Will Rock You’. They sounded a little rusty, however they managed to make the crowd jitter and shout out almost all of the songs that they played. Well done Bondhu!

The South Asian Bands Festival 2013 at Purana Qila, Delhi

The Bhutanese band ZnG was a nice change as they started out with mellow and soft music followed by some rock as well. The vocalist had a soothing touch to his voice and all the members were wearing traditional clothes which resembled the Scottish kilts.

The South Asian Bands Festival 2013 at Purana Qila, Delhi

The boys from Delhi, The Circus, jumped right after ZnG and caught everyone’s attention with their non-stop loops and excellent sound mixing. The band started off with their usual and popular cover of Nine Inch Nail’s song ‘Wish’. This was followed by their original tracks including ‘It Feels Good When the Medications They Kick In’ and ‘Bats’. The crowd was loving it and surprisingly singing along to the songs.

The South Asian Bands Festival 2013 at Purana Qila, Delhi

The show took a HUGE turn when the band from South Korea, Biuret arrived at the stage. The lead vocalist was a pretty girl with long hair and a Fender guitar in hand. The crowd suddenly seemed to have doubled out of nowhere. While the band sounded like typical South-east Asian band, the act seemed to pull a lot of attention. The lead guitarist, Happy Jackson, was super enthusiastic and kept shouting the words ‘Namaste’ and ‘Dhanyabaad’ after every song. The band also covered well-known songs like ‘Dancing Queen’ and ‘Lady Marmalade’

The performances did not disappoint. We even bumped into people who had travelled from other cities just to get a glimpse of the festival. All in all, a warm and soothing  atmosphere covered the evening on the first day of the South Asian Bands festival.

The South Asian Bands Festival 2013 at Purana Qila, Delhi

Day 2

By the time we made it to Purana Qila on Day 2, Stigmata, the Sri Lankan band that had started the evening’s proceedings, were wrapping up their set. We were filled with anticipation, for Papon & The East India Company were playing that night, as were Strings, the melodic phenomenon from across the border. But before that, Eman’sConspiracy from Maldives took to the stage. Eman Thawfeeq, the band’s eponymous vocalist, asked the Delhi crowd if it was ready to rock. And boy, did they rock! Right from the first track, they showed they meant business. Lots of energy, all the right moves, and a chorus with a great vibe, with a guitar solo thrown in for good measure – yes, this was a good start, by any standards. The band then moved to a song about a girl called Rezna, who’d allegedly been a bad, bad girl. Again, very tight, with a solid groove and catchy chorus, the song inspired much dancing and headbanging.

The South Asian Bands Festival 2013 at Purana Qila, Delhi

Oh, and did we mention that the band was not singing in English, or Hindi? Yes, all their songs are written in Dhivehi. Even though not a word was understood, a brilliant time was had, because, like Eman Thawfeeq put it after the song, you don’t always need to understand the words, because music is a universal language. The conspirators then followed it up with a heavily funk-driven number, reminiscent of RHCP’s ‘Walkabout’. A lazy rhythm, underpinned by fluid basslines and Sunday-afternoon-repose drums, was rounded off by a wah-pedal solo, making everyone sway. Changing gears, they moved on to a song about tickling. Yes, you read that right. And what an amazing song that was. The bass held a frenetic rhythm, as the high energy song chugged on. Every member of the band was on overdrive. The vocals holding the high notes comfortably, the twin guitar attack unceasing and on target, and the rhythm section churning out a serious groove. The song ended amid hysterical laughter from all band members. One couldn’t help but marvel at the connect that the band had built up with the crowd, which was swelling by the minute. The fact that these guys are gifted musicians individually is beyond dispute. But there’s more to them than that – they are great performers. They traded witticisms with the crowd, acknowledged the roars of approval, and put on all the correct Rock-God poses. Swell, especially when one considers the fact that they are a fairly recent unit, having come together only in August this year for a gig. After they completed their last song, they promised to come play in India again, and we hope to see them live again. Eman, you’re right, music is not restricted by barriers as inconsequential as language.

The South Asian Bands Festival 2013 at Purana Qila, Delhi

The atmosphere had built up and reached electric levels by now, and there was a deafening roar as Papon & The East India Company started their set. Over the last few years, Papon has built up a massive fanbase, and Delhi welcomed him with open arms.  A small sound glitch at the beginning of the set was resolved quickly, and for the next hour, Papon & The East India Company had everyone present at Purana Qila under their spell. ‘Khumaar’ was easily one of the best performances of the evening. The rapt audience hung on to every word, arms waving, singing along. This rendition was as good as, if not better than the Coke Studio version. One definitely missed Kalyan Baruah on the guitars, but Jeenti Dutta handled the guitars with equal parts aplomb and finesse. Papon’s mellow vocals perfectly suited the sensous song about love and longing. As the song ended amid a thousand waving arms, the only word we could come with to describe the experience was ‘Sublime’.

The South Asian Bands Festival 2013 at Purana Qila, Delhi

Up next was another Coke Studio hit, ‘Dinae Dinae’. The band played a different, faster version of the song, with Papon taking on both the Assamese and Punjabi vocals. After some banter with the crowd, Papon regaled the audience with ‘Kyun’ from the soundtrack of the film ‘Barfi’, and had everyone singing along. This was followed by ‘Tokari’, from the previous season of Coke Studio.  This is a traditional song from Assam, which talks about the antics of Lord Krishna. Combining the traditional vibe with modern pop and EDM sensibilities, this is a song that one can’t listen to standing still. The feet move, the head bobs, and the arms trace patterns in the air, all of their own accord. Keeping to the Coke Studio theme, the next song was ‘Tauba Tauba’, a vastly improved version as compared to the one with Benny Dayal. ‘Jiyein Kyun’ was another highlight, a song with so much soul. It conveyed pain, sorrow and nostalgia in a heady mix, brought to life by Papon’s magical voice.

The South Asian Bands Festival 2013 at Purana Qila, Delhi

Here is a man who sings from the deepest part of his heart. If you havenÂ’t heard him yet, ladies and gentlemen, we urge you, please do. Deciding to infuse some frolic into the proceedings, Papon gave into the crowdÂ’s demands and launched into ‘Banao BanaoÂ’. Now this song has become an anthem of sorts, with references to how green the, ahem, grass, is. Papon recounted his days in Assam, his college life in Delhi and his quest for making music. A fictional ‘BabajiÂ’ apparently espoused the virtues of grass (ahem again) as the cure for all of lifeÂ’s tribulations. The gifted raconteur that he is, Papon weaved his tale as the crowd lustily sang ‘Right NowÂ’ to the ‘Banao BanaoÂ’ refrain. That was to be the last song of their set, but such was the crowdÂ’s demand for an encore, that the band obliged with ‘Pak PakÂ’, a breezy Bihu song. One felt again the universal language of music – this song was entirely in Assamese, but looking at the crowd who were lapping up the dance party and folk fest, all in one, one would never guess. Papon tutored the audience on Bihu dance moves and invited them to join him. The band deserves a special mention, seamlessly blending folk instruments with new age music and rock riffs. Birthday boy Tanmay on the drums, Kirti on various percussion instruments, Deepak on bass, Brin on keyboards and Jeenti on the guitars provided a perfect foil to PaponÂ’s vocals.

The South Asian Bands Festival 2013 at Purana Qila, Delhi

It was time for the final act of the night. Having been around for years and boasting of a long list of hits under their belt, Strings really need no introduction. They have played a number of shows in India and their melodic tunes and thought-provoking lyrics have won them many admirers. Their first song of the evening was ‘Naa Jaane Kyun’, and it was followed up by the upbeat ‘Koi Aane Waala Hai’. Two things were immediately apparent – in guitarist Adeel the band have a virtuoso, and Faisal seemed to be holding the vocals back for some reason. This is not to say that anything was amiss with the music that the band was dishing out. ‘Anjaane’ was delivered in a new avatar, segueing into the riff of ‘Sweet child o’ mine’ and then to ‘Socha Hai’ from ‘Rock On’ before ending back where it started.

The South Asian Bands Festival 2013 at Purana Qila, Delhi

Special mention must be made of Aahad, the drummer. Looking like a young Mike Portnoy, he matched the legend in terms of his energy on stage, and treated the crowd to a fantastic double bass drum solo. Adeel, meanwhile, showed his guitar prowess in every song with racy, melodic solos. Faisal took the crowd back to the yesteryears, making them sing along to ‘Ye Dosti Hum Nahi Todenge’ and ‘Jaanu Meri Jaan’, altering the latter’s lyrics slightly to bring forth the friendship between India and Pakistan. It was a theme throughout their set, and Strings emphasised how much they appreciate the love they have received in India. Faisal, always humble, effused warmth and invited those present to visit Pakistan and partake of their hospitality. Ah! Such great ambassadors of friendship music gives us!

The South Asian Bands Festival 2013 at Purana Qila, Delhi

‘Yeh Hai Meri KahaaniÂ’ was welcomed with a thunderous applause and given the full crowd singalong treatment. ‘Chhaaye ChhaayeÂ’ was reinvented for the stage, and the songÂ’s infectious groove insiped much dancing. Next, Bilal took on the vocal duties and sang ‘Sar Kiye Ye PaharÂ’ which was one of StringsÂ’ earliest hits in India. WeÂ’ve always thought Bilal to be the better singer of the two, and he didnÂ’t disappoint at all. The eager crowd was clamouring for their favourite songs and shouting for ‘DuurÂ’ and ‘DhaaniÂ’. Reassuring the gathering, Faisal said Â’Itminaan rakhiye. Itni duur se aaye hain, saare gaane gaake hi jayengeÂ’. ‘DuurÂ’ was received with much cheering and singing along, and ‘DhaaniÂ’ of course, was a huge hit. This was followed by the bandÂ’s introduction, with every member wowing the audience with his dexterity. After AahadÂ’s breathtaking drum solo, Khaled on the bass and Haider on the keybaords acknowledged the cheers with a display of their talent. But the showstealer was Adeel on the guitar. He played ‘Saare Jahaan Se AchchaÂ’ to wild applause and marched on to showcase some deft runs on the fretboard, putting the whammy bar to liberal use.  It is a testament to the bandÂ’s popularity that the crowd sang along to every song, often singing the whole verse while the duo held out the mics to them. This is a band that always touches a chord with the audience. Needless to say, we’re already looking forward to seeing them on stage again.

Day two of the South Asian bands festival was a fantastic experience and made for some great music, and sure gave some good memories to take back. Live, we always feel, is how music ought to be.

The South Asian Bands Festival 2013 at Purana Qila, Delhi

Day 3

What’s in the Name was the first band to go on stage and boy they sparkled! These wacky boys (with even wackier get-ups) from Mumbai set the stage afire with their brand of straight-outta-school alt-funk-rock, albeit with an added chutzpah. Their energy was oozing out and perhaps the lead singer’s ankle bore the brunt when he twisted it in an awkward fall. They sang kitschy numbers like ‘Hey Bhabhi!’ and finished their power packed set in half an hour. All in all, a pretty good warm up for rest of the evening.

The South Asian Bands Festival 2013 at Purana Qila, Delhi

Men from Afghanistan followed and they were called- Pardis. Inherently Persian in nature their music relied more on rhythm. They sang in Hindi too and it was an absolute delight when accompanied with their thick Pashto accent.

The South Asian Bands Festival 2013 at Purana Qila, Delhi

The crowd though was getting increasingly impatient and were vociferously cheering ‘Al-ba-tross, Al-ba-tross’, who were to perform later in the evening. We are not talking about Mumbai’s Albatross here. This was the band from Nepal, the most anticipated act by the crowd by far. There was still time for them to take the stage. And when Susmit Sen walked out with his band on the stage, we could sense a palpable anguish amidst the Albatross fans. Though The Chronicles were rather unperturbed and their performance was an epitome of serenity. Definitely that calmed the junta for a while. Flavours of jazz, folk and the ever organic Indian classical when blended together always work as a great therapy. This was the first time we watched the Chronicles perform after Susmit quit Indian Ocean and devoted attention fully for the solo project. Our curiosity and expectations were both satisfied and they sounded way tighter than they had before. The Chronicles are surely evolving but there’s the stereotype of ‘sounding like Indian Ocean’ they would certainly like to get away with soon.

The South Asian Bands Festival 2013 at Purana Qila, Delhi

Next up – Albatross. And then a mad rush ran through the crowd. This is what they have been waiting for and the sizeable Nepali contingent at the venue had revolution on their minds. They sang their lungs out, they jostled, and they moshed (even to the mellow numbers) and at times misbehaved with women too. Everything in their unbridled excitement. The ever-aggressive Delhi was out again and now wore its heart on the sleeve.

The South Asian Bands Festival 2013 at Purana Qila, Delhi

The emotions calmed down ostensibly (for the good) when the maverick from Bangalore – Raghu Dixit took the stage. He stuck to the promotion of his latest album Jag Changa much to the dismay of the crowd who demanded his more popular numbers. That was not disappointing though for we got to hear the new numbers that were equally vibrant. Raghu eventually did give in to the popular demand and ended his stellar set with ‘Mysore Se AyiÂ’. Which meant the curtains fell for a final time at this yearÂ’s TSABF. It had been truly magnificent and the mix of different types of music from all over Asia hit the right notes and honestly, this yearÂ’s South Asian Bands festival was been bigger, better and well organised.

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Deep Chakraborty, Shubhodeep Datta and Kunal Khullar

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The Mad Experience at Fern Hills Palace, Ooty

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The first edition of The Mad Festival was greatly anticipated mainly because it held the promise of bringing Music, Arts and Dance together – each one being a form of expression where the difference lies only in the medium through which ideas, thoughts and feelings are conveyed. A closer look at the festival details revealed that they had an amazing line-up with some of the most accomplished musicians and dancers. The location seemed to be the cherry on top of the cake – Ooty was the perfect destination to head to, to enjoy three days of unadulterated bliss. There was no way we would miss this one.

The Mad Experience at Fern Hills Palace, Ooty

The journey began with high expectations, mixed with a lot of apprehension because it is a known fact that organizing events of this magnitude with performances by 48 artistes over a span of 3 days is no ordinary task and since this was the first edition of The Mad Festival, we hoped that everything would run smoothly without any glitches. Strategically placed signboards on the streets leading to Fern Hills ensured that no one had trouble finding the venue. A massive doorway at the entrance announced the name of the festival in bold letters. The setting for the festival was provided by sky-high trees, lovely hills outlining the venue and step farms, lush green with tea plantations. The sheer beauty of the place, and the lovely weather made the venue seem like any art lover’s paradise!

The Mad Experience at Fern Hills Palace, Ooty

The security at the entrance stripped people off all their eatables, unsealed cigarette packs, lighters and water bottles after a thorough inspection of bags and sent the articles collected straight to the dustbin, with no provisions for collecting them after the festival. However, this was forgiven and forgotten as soon as one got past the gates and beheld the massive stage setup. The two stages at the venue called ‘Blubaloo’ and ‘Callaloo’ (which apparently don’t mean anything, in case you were wondering if they had any tribal significance) were set up at different locations and were well-separated from each other by the Mad Bazaar, such that walking over from one stage to another wasn’t much of a chore and the music from the two stages hardly interfered with each other. Two massive boards at each stage announced the line-up for the festival, which was a delectable mixture of different genres featuring artistes spanning various countries and origins.

The Mad Experience at Fern Hills Palace, Ooty

The turnout at the festival was surprisingly low, especially on the first day. Two food stalls and the limited number of tents at the sparsely populated venue made it seem like a large crowd wasn’t expected. However, more people turned up on the second day and the third, making the place a lot livelier. Each day’s proceedings began with an invocation on both stages by the local tribes – Todas, Kotas, Irula, Kattunayakans, Paniyars and Kurumba. On day one, the first few bands played to a sparse audience. However, towards the latter part of the day, a satisfactory number had gathered around both stages to relish the variety of tunes being belted out, scuttling from one stage to another from time to time, not wanting to miss out on too much of anything. The performances on the two stages were well-spaced, giving the audience the opportunity of catching a bit of everything!

The Mad Experience at Fern Hills Palace, Ooty

The pathway from the ‘Blubaloo’ stage to the ‘Callaloo’ stage was lined by the Mad Bazaar with lovely little stalls that sold everything from soft toys, flamboyant cowboy hats, shimmering bows, feathered stoles, fancy hairbands and tiaras, books with original 3D comic art, hats with oversized bows, unconventional musical instruments to a variety of other trinkets. Cupcakes of different varieties were hugely popular and consumed in large numbers. Curiously, there was very little variety across the food stalls at both stages, which got boring towards the end of three days and also quite heavy on the pocket! The ‘Blubaloo’ stage was also lined by the Paintball Zone that had a foosball table, darts and other fun games to indulge in!

The Mad Experience at Fern Hills Palace, Ooty

The Mad Experience at Fern Hills Palace, Ooty

Not surprisingly, The Bar always seemed to have a sizeable crowd with people gathered around, beers in hand, making their own music by beating on cartons that doubled up as percussion instruments and belting out their own tribal calls at the top of their voices. Mild flirting, animated conversations, socializing and bonding over alcohol and shared cigarettes contributed to most of the buzz while the rest of the buzz came in from the stalls comprising the Mad Bazaar.

The Mad Experience at Fern Hills Palace, Ooty

The Mad Experience at Fern Hills Palace, Ooty

Sadly, the stalls were the only things that contributed to the “Art” in the festival. The space available around both stages could have been put to better use to display art more extensively. Three days into the festival, we realized that it was more about Music than Arts and Dance, with the latter two thrown in seemingly just to fit the bill to qualify as a festival that promotes all art forms. Hopefully, the second edition of The Mad Festival will have more to offer on that front!

The Mad Experience at Fern Hills Palace, Ooty

In addition to listening and watching the bands and artistes perform on stage, the attendees could also interact with them at the various workshops conducted at the festival such as the ‘Depth of Expression’ workshop by Susmit Sen and the ‘Chaos Theory’ workshop by State of Bengal. There were also several theatre, photography and Yoga workshops that people could enroll for.

The camping place with over 160 tents was quite a walk from the stage (for those who weren’t smart enough to figure out a shortcut!) and was probably the best place to hang out after the day’s proceedings. Bonfires were lit, guitars were wielded and popular tunes were played that everyone sang to. The chilly breeze and drunken conversations over the crackling of a fire with the soft strumming of a guitar or two in the background brought each eventful day to a close. However, when it was time to retire to the cramped tents, the hard floor and the not-so-warm sleeping bags, one would think enviously of all the people in the palace with a soft bed for comfort. A couple of foreigners were spotted complaining that the ticket said “basic power supply” but there was none provided at the camping site. People had to run to the Dell stall next to the ‘Blubaloo’ stage or the palace to charge their phones, which was quite an inconvenience. The portable toilets were many in number although a few of them were quite unclean. This left people with the only option – of running to the palace located 1 km away from the camping site (unless they knew the shortcut!)

The Mad Experience at Fern Hills Palace, Ooty

Days two and three definitely seemed to gain a lot of momentum with a lot more people joining in and enjoying the music, sprawled on the lawns, hanging on to the barricades or just dancing to the tunes at a distance. Some even found a vantage point overlooking the hills and step farms, relishing the music while enjoying the sights and sounds. One thing a lot of artistes complimented the organizers on was the sound. There were almost no problems with respect to sound save for some feedback and volume issues here and there. The sound was pristine, with the sound engineers doing an impeccable job, except for the low volume levels for the Concordia Choir and some feedback during Slain’s performance.

The Mad Experience at Fern Hills Palace, Ooty

The bands and artistes at The Mad Festival covered the whole gamut of genres and sounds. It is rare to come by a festival where you get to see a heavy metal band like Kryptos play alongside a folk rock fusion act like Swarathma or a World music band like Moon Arra. There was clearly an effort made to showcase ethnic music from all over the country. Artistes like The Kabir Project (Sufi, Folk) singing the mysticism of the poet Kabir, Manganiars playing Rajasthani folk music and Vayali folklore group from Kerala portrayed the musical roots of India, while international bands like The Krar Collective from Ethiopia and Kutumba from Nepal had the audience spellbound with their local ethnic music. Fusion acts like Yodhakaa (Sanskrit-based contemporary Indian music), Agam (Carnatic Rock), The Raghu Dixit Project, Indian Ocean and Papon & The East India Company bridged the musical gap between the traditional and the modern sounds, whereas, contemporary rock bands like Motherjane, Slain, Live Banned, Thermal and a Quarter and Avial had the young crowd rocking out. The Shillong bands Soulmate (Blues) and Afflatus (Rock) were particularly impressive with their onstage intensity and sheer incredible musicianship. The Electronic Music fans had something to groove to with bands like State of Bengal, Schizophonic and God’s Robots providing pulsating beats. With such a diversity of music on display at The Mad Festival, there was hardly a soul around who wasn’t caught up with the music of their liking.

The Mad Experience at Fern Hills Palace, Ooty

Overall, The Mad Festival proved to be a wonderfully executed event that brought together several artistes and fans from different parts of the world and gave them a chance to interact closely and become acquainted with each other. There were incessant compliments for the organizers by artistes and fans alike for having arranged something like this in the first place, in such a beautiful location, and pulling it off in such a short time frame and the vote in this regard, was unanimous. One of the endearing, and overlooked, details of The Mad Festival was that no band was billed as the headlining act with other bands opening for it. All bands, local and international, were given equal opportunity and a level platform to showcase their art. With the festival featuring 48 bands, stretching over three days, on-site accommodation in tents and camps, the air sizzling with carnival atmosphere, The Mad Festival surely has the potential to be India’s equivalent of international festivals like the Glastonbury Festival.

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Priyanka Shetty

Priyanka Shetty is the founder of What's The Scene? Follow Priyanka on Twitter @priyanka_shetty

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